Fellowship of the Spey
Five blokes six days one river
It was September 2012, during
an organised Canoe Camping Club meet on the banks of the river Soar, when the
topic for a 2013 Scottish trip was raised.
The conversation ended with
an unanimous decision, we were to paddle a classic Scottish touring river, the
Spey.
As with the previous year’s
trip to Loch Shiel, a "secret" Face book group called The Fellowship
of the Spey was created, hence the name of the write up, discussions regarding
what, how, who and when took place on this useful platform.
Due to the nature of the
river, the paddlers aka the Fellowship all needed to be competent in their
chosen craft.
We had decided for more than
one reason there was to be six paddlers in the group.
As the year rolled on and
circumstances changed two of the Fellowship had to back out :( .
Their spaces were soon filled
and we were back to a full strength group for the trip, or so we thought....
On the day before our
departure member number six received some rather unfortunate news that
prevented him from going.
The Fellowship was now down
to five - Myself (Tim), Tim, Clive, Stu and Mike.
An eclectic mix of characters,
with a broad range of skills and personalities that formed into a great team
with the sole aim, not to conquer but to enjoy all of the aspects of the
journey.
Description of The River Spey by the Scottish Canoe
Association (SCA)
“Well known for its ‘Classic
Descents’ this is a major river that can usually be relied upon to give
reasonable water levels at all seasons. Probably one of the most beautiful
rivers in Britain, flowing past the Cairngorms, through Badenoch and Strathspey
and into the Moray Firth at Spey Bay. Whilst, before venturing on to the Spey
unguided one should be a proficient paddler, there are very few highly
technical rapids on the river. On sections downstream of Grantown-on-Spey there
is a good number of entertaining Grade II rapids.
Truly a ‘water-path’, this
river is navigable for most of its length ~ from source at Loch Spey (where the
Spey shares its water shed with the turbulent River Roy). A major hazard
occurring above Laggan Bridge is the Spey Dam, which like the River Roy steals
the Spey's waters and takes them westward (to help power an aluminium smelter).
However, good water-levels and much portage are required to make the very
highest reaches navigable. Approx 1km upstream of Garva Bridge is a short Grade
III rapid requiring care and at Garva Bridge the rapid is impassable in low
water conditions and Grade III standard if ‘navigable’. Although Laggan Bridge
is a fairly good access point, Newtonmore is normally recognised as the highest
reasonable starting place unless river is fairly high. Roads run close to the
river throughout its length.”
Day 1, Friday the 13th September, the longest day.
As soon as I returned home
from that necessary evil that we call work I filled my front garden with my
boat and kit, which had been inspected cleaned and packed.
After loading up Clives car
with what looked like an aftermath of an explosion in a canoe/camping shop, we
were ready. The time was 17.30, I kissed "tarrah-a-bit" to my long
suffering wife Mandy and our daughter Nancy, I didn’t neglect the dog, he had a
fuss too.
We drove up to Tims house in
Doncaster, hitting some rather frustrating traffic en route, upon our arrival,
we proceeded to load up a yet another car plus a canoe trailer for the second
leg of our journey. By 22.00 we were fed watered and on the long long road up
north.
We arrived at Laggan Bridge
Grid ref NN615 943 (this is as far up the river as we thought practicable) and
peered over the bridge to check the level of the river and surmised that there
was enough water......there was...just. Minutes after our arrival, we were to
witness the most glorious of sunrises, this at 05.30.
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Sunrise |
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Our first view of the Spey |
The Fellowship all mucked in
and unloaded the kit and boats, before the drivers Tim and Stu embarked on yet
more driving, an epic four hour car shuttle.
We were very lucky to have a
contact living nearby who helped with the car shuttle by ferrying our tired
drivers back to Laggan Bridge, a big thanks to "you know who" ;-).
The cars were conveniently
stashed a few minutes walk from the end of the river just as it meets the sea,
nearly ninety miles away from us in Spey bay.
Whilst the car shuttle was in
progress the rest of us man handled kit and boats down a steep bank to the
rivers edge.
Here at Laggan Bridge just as
the Spey emerges from under the bridge a broad, low concrete wall had been
built three quarters across the width of the river creating a narrow weir at
the far end, this made us a handy "pier" for us to stack kit and lie
down.
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Jus' chillin |
The weir had quite a small but
"grabby" standing wave, which kept me entertained as I made the most
of an empty boat and surfed for it a while, after play time Mike, Clive and I
ate our breakfast and packed our boats.
Downstream of the weir the river is shallow
and narrow in places and the banks were (and still are I guess) lined with
trees of which had branches covered in less fortunate trees/branches that had
been uprooted by flood water. Some of these branches were dry and just the right size for the fire boxes
which along with "Sherman" (Stu's wood burning stove) were to be our
primary cookers for the evenings. Whilst we were waiting for Tim and Stu to
return we harvested some of this wood, chatted and cat napped.
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Fuel for the stoves |
Finally the two tired drivers
returned, they quickly loaded their boats (we would have done it but as you
know loading a boat is a personal thing) and soon enough we were on the river.
As I mentioned earlier the
river was quite shallow and narrow so to negotiate the bends we had to search
for the deepest channel, sometimes with success sometimes not, overhanging
trees didn’t help either!
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Weaving through the upper streches |
Various skills were called
upon, paddling, poling (snubbing) and lining and on occasions plain and simple
brute force was called upon to get the boats moving off "stuff" and
in the desired direction.
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Mauling the heavy boats |
We had the wind at our backs,
and it had a habit of disguising boulders and other underwater boat
entrapments, with this in mind close quarter route finding was the name of the
game; however this proved rather difficult with the fantastic scenery appearing
at the turn of every corner, causing distractions and photo opportunities then
ultimately an altercation with one thing or another stopping the boats dead in
their tracks.
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Lovely just plain lovely
|
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could it get any better? |
Our progress was slow, but
speed wasn't on our agenda, the plan was to paddle until we could find a half
decent camp site somewhere and then catch up with some much needed shut eye.
We found one, just before
Spey Bridge at Newtonmore grid ref NN 700 974, overshadowed by Creag Dhubh
Cairn.
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Camp 1 |
We scouted the immediate area
not only for our tent spaces but a spot for the communal tarp. Once the tents
and tarps were pitched, we set about lighting the cooking fire in two fire
boxes.
We had previously agreed that
we would all supply and cook an evening meal each, tonight it was my turn. I
had chosen to make a chilli which, in the main was prepared at home and then
frozen.
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Smokey campfire chilli |
It thawed during the journey, and was cooked as a chilli should be, in
billy pans suspended from tripods over an open fire. The evening drew to a
close as we stared into the flames with full bellies, a brief chat followed by
a wee dram and we were all yawning.
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It had been a long day |
It was about eight o’clock Saturday night
and we were all pretty much bushed. It had been a long long day, about thirty
eight hours for me without a proper sleep.
Sunday 15/9/13
During the night the weather
changed dramatically, a storm front had hit us, wind and rain gave the tents
and tarps a fair old lashing, but they stood firm.
The following morning we
awoke to the noise of more rain and yet more wind. This didn't faze us as we
were on a natural high, we just got stuck in to our chores.
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Wild Country in a Wild Country
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The view from my tent |
Again as the day before the
river levels dictated how we propelled our boats, be it with paddles, poles or
just plain jumping out and mauling. That was for the four canoeists, Mike who
was in a loaned cross over kayak which being all but two weeks old was
employing as many techniques as he could to prevent his boat from "boulder
strike" and scratching/marking it
(find out later if he succeeded)
Not long after setting off we
went under a road bridge at Newtonmore where we had to make an emergency pit
stop, one of Stu's seat bolts gave up the ghost and his seat was now looking
rather wonkey. This was soon fixed with my super strong kite string-tracking
bridle. (Thanks to the 4* training we had for that idea) this temporary fix
lasted the whole trip and was easy to untie as well :)
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Fixing the seat |
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Stu's broken seat and the temporary repair that lasted 70 miles of canoeing |
Off we paddled, shooting the
odd riffle, dodging submerged boulders and negotiating gravel beds, of which,
kept us on our toes or indeed on our feet out of the boats, mauling them if we
got stuck. My poling repertoire had gained yet another technique, I called it
the Spey shuffle, whilst asserting a fair amount of pressure on the pole I was
rocking my boat side to side vigorously to free it from boulders etc that lay
just below the surface.
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One of the many, many riffles along the way |
We passed a few islands en
route as the river meandered towards the Insh Marsh Nature Reserve, by now our
stomachs were saying it was dinner time, but as we were in the middle of a
marsh with steep banks either side, it was deemed wise to push on to Loch Insh
and the possibility of a beach.
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Entering Loch Inch
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The rain breaks as we search for a lunch spot |
We pulled up for lunch on a
beach at the southern most point of the Loch, just in time for the rain
(Scottish mist?) to ease. Lunch was eaten and very soon over, we clambered back
into the boats. I have to say we were all surprised how warm the water was on
our hands.
In the small bay by the beach
the Loch surface was like a mirror, but we noticed when we pulled off that
there were a few tell-tale riffles in the middle of the Loch indicating some
wind, on the shore a photographer was clicking away, his telephoto lens
pointing in our direction, whilst the Fellowship crossed the Loch. It would be
interesting to see his photos.
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Lunch at Inch |
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Leaving the lunch spot |
The exit route of the Loch
being the mouth of the river was just over one kilometre North from "our
beach," and the wind was blowing North East, not a problem when we started
but sullen storm clouds were coming our way at speed, hitting us as we were
mid-way across, in no time at all, the wind had picked up the waves turning
them into galloping white horses. The waves were big enough to break over the
sides of the canoes threatening to swamp us; on top of this we also battled
desperately trying to prevent the boats from "weather cocking." Only
Stu equipped with his sail enjoyed the crossing as he tacked his way across.
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The weather started to turn.. |
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The wind picked up some more |
The Fellowship collected
together in the lee of the island at the mouth of the Spey, just in time for
the storm to abate. Now with a smile on our faces and fully warmed up we
paddled off down-stream.
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The Fellowship made it to safety and calmer waters |
I will not try to repeat
myself, but just to reiterate each and every day we were confronted by stunning
views as the rivers character changes as it flows towards the sea, re-entering
the river was one such event.
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A stunning river |
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Peace and tranquillity |
Another river joined as we
started to look for camp two. Several kilometres later we had found one, grid
ref NH 833 086. This campsite had a sandy surface with trees and shrubs dotted
about which were convenient to hang our drying lines and to suspend the tarp
upon. Same as yesterday and the following days to come we chose a "tarp
spot" and then bagged ourselves a tent space.
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Camp 2 |
Wood was sought, cut and
chopped for the cooking fire, some was stored from the previous night in my
boat but needed drying out a little as earlier that day my gunnels were dipped
under water by a tree, I didn't swim but I did come close, loaded boats just
aren't responsive at all and the river had a fair flow to it!
It was Mikes turn for tea
that night, Pasta Carbanara was on the menu followed by "*Lumpy
Delight*" for pudding, a new one on me but it worked. We were now running
low on water, I had bought a water filter and was filtering the river water,
however it was hard going as the fine peaty water soon clogged up the ceramic
filter. Eventually we set the fire with a big billy pan full of river water
suspended from a tripod; we got the water to a rolling boil and left it for the
morning. This was to supplement the filtered water, filtered water for cold
drinks, boiled river water for hot drinks and porridge. As the night before
after some idle chat we "hit the sack" as the sky went dark.(we
weren't being unsociable as had been chatting all day.) During the night Clive
heard a pig like snuffleing and snorting sound around our camp, wild boar
maybe?
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Camp 2's kitchen |
*lumpy delight for the curious ones is Angel Delight
(this one was caramel) with crunched up Hobnob biscuits*
Monday 16/9/13
We awoke to a dry morning and
packed away our gear brushing the sandy earth of as much kit as we could,
leaving the site with no traces of our stay.
Saturday’s rain by now had
made it to the river and it had risen a good and helpful 8 - 10 inches, fortunately Mike had tied his
boat to a tree as the beach that it was pulled up on was now under water. Boats
packed we were on our way, time was immaterial when we were there but it was
early(ish) in the morning.
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Duke of Gordons monument, on hill adjacent camp2 |
Just past the bridge that
carries the B970 to Aviemore there is a
launch spot where we pulled in for supplies, it was here we saw the only other
paddlers of the week, kayakers who were on a three star course, we exchanged
some pleasantries with them before they splashed away upstream.
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Supply stop |
Soon enough we left Aviemore
and continued our journey through the outer fringes of the Cairngorms
Mountains.
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Paddling away from Aviemore
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The Fellowship head towards the Misty Mountains |
Stopping for lunch of at an old "bargain basement" wriggly
tin Gillie hut.
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Lunch hut |
The weather was an off and on mixture of light rain/cloudy/sunny/windy
weather, the wind whilst strong at times was predominately at our backs causing
no real problems. In fact on one stretch the wind was strong enough to propel
us through the water at a reasonable pace; at this point I didn't paddle for at
least 500 meters (547 yards in old money.)
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The wind at our backs |
The only real disadvantage we
had with the wind was finding a sheltered campsite, the campsite that night was
on one of the many islands scattered along the Spey. Grid ref NJ022 255
although it was sheltered and was easily big enough, it had a six foot bank to
maul the kit and boats up, but being The Fellowship it all went smoothly boats
and kit was soon out and on flat ground. Once all the kit was up it was time to
set up our temporary home. I had bought my hammock and was determined to use
it, I don't know why in hindsight as it took me longer to put up than my tent,
I had far less privacy and wasn't as comfortable, nothing against hammocks I
guess they just don't suit me for sleeping in.
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Camp three |
Tea that night was cooked by
Tim, Vegetable Moorish Tagine followed by steam pudding and custard, the steam
pudding needs another mention as it needs to be said it was made from scratch
on an open fire in the Cairngorms National park! Hats off to you Tim it was
delicious.
It may have been this night
that we all stopped up late, the last one of us turned in at about 21.30!
Tuesday 17/9/13
The morning broke and we were
packed and "humanized” (fed, coffee'd and cleansed teeth) and lowering the
boats to the river.
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Lowering the boats into the water
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Setting off |
We were soon past the bustling metropolis that is Grantown
on Spey, relatively speaking that is as we saw very few people.
Again the river didn't disappoint, more often
than not you can see how much the river was dropping in such a short time, the
riffles were now turning into low grade rapids, wave trains were getting bigger
necessitating more bailing and more sponge work.
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gaining water |
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Bailing out with a pump |
This didn't bother us as we
were all now dry suited up. There were a few more islands on this stretch. As
we reached Craggenmore and according to the guide a grade 2 rapid was soon to
be upon us, just as the river Avon joins the Spey, I readied myself shuffling
in my boat in expectation when.....wait was THAT it? Just another wave train???
The pace had picked up some
more, one more rapid until we reached our campsite at Blacksboat Station when
Stu bellowed "WASHING MACHINE" having heard of this named rapid I
knew he wasn't shouting about a wayward Zanusi, I quickly assumed the kneeling
position . A horizon line appeared as one by one we dropped down into the maelstrom,
I was at the back and like Clive took the fun line, right through the eye of
the rapid, I hit the first of the big waves then a bigger one and so on until
the biggest one of the rapid which was nigh on at eye level, the bow of my
canoe buried deep into it before lifting out and pointing skywards before
slamming down onto the following waves. A few inches of Spey water now slopped
around my knees, I grinned like a little kid at Clive and Clive grinned back at
me whilst we both bailed out our boats.
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Dropping down into the washing machine |
We made camp at the disused
railway station,grid ref NJ 184 388, it was a campsite marked in the guide as a
"basic camping" with a composting toilet and a tap. The loo was shut
and we had to boil the water. Oh well.
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Clive cooking on Sherman |
It was Clives turn to be the
cook and we had a chicken curry with flapjacks and custard for pudding. This
was cooked on "Sherman" as it was a grassy field with no boulders to
lay the fireboxes on.
We had a little smattering of
rain that evening.
Wednesday 18/9/13
Wednesday morning came around
and saw us launching and then ferry gliding across the river to tsrt another
brilliant days paddling, after a couple of kms we were heading towards
Knockando which the surrounding area has more whiskey distillery's than a junk
yard dog has fleas, oh and another named rapid, funnily enough called Knockando
(no-can-do?) We past one of the nicest Ghillie hut on the river, a few Ladies
and Gentlemen were fly fishing, I say Ladies and Gentlemen as they were very very polite and civilised, bear in mind
they are probably paying over £1000 a day for the privilege of fishing there.
A few well timed paddle
strokes and a little more "flying by the seat of your pants" route
finding and we were all through, not a particularly difficult rapid but fun all
the same. We past a few more distilleries and paddled a few more rapids before
we reached Charlestown of Aberlour, we pulled in by the bridge and had lunch,
Stu was in desperate need for a pint and a butchers shop to buy meat for tea.
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More rapids |
Thoroughly refreshed he
returned with some news, there is a manhunt further down river and we were to
be on the look out for a man with a knife! I was surrounded by four unshaven
men with knives and big sticks, we should be ok.
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The surrounding area was stunning......still |
As the day wore on it was
time to look for a campsite, there is some remains of a castle marked on the
map it could be a possibility? We paddled past Nothes and the smell of the
distilleries was a bit too strong for comfort, all being well we would be far
enough away from the plant to smell it.
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another rapid |
The castle was a no-go for camping, but
there is an island on the Map a little way downstream. This one was a go-er.
Camp was made the Stew was cooking on top of Sherman, we were relaxed when a
Ghillie strode into camp with a "punter" a brief chat later as we
reassured him we would leave the island just as we found it. We watched as the
fisherman "whipped "the water hunting for the elusive salmon that
never came.
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A ghillie and his client |
Tea was consumed as was another first for
puddings, Jelly, apple pie and cream. In fact it was Spey Jelly as it was made
the night before and cooled at the bottom of Stu's canoe.
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A little R & R for me. |
The last of the Jura
whiskey was drank around the fire boxes as we waited for night to fall.
During the night I woke to
what I thought was a search light shining on the side of my tent, being a nosey
so and so I stuck my head out to witness the moon shining brightly, lighting up
the surrounding area, I couldn't resist a walk out to the beach to soak up the
atmosphere.
Thursday 19/9/13
It was starting to become a
bit noticeable that despite wet wipes and in-tent washing we were all starting
to hum a little.
Much to my/our delight the
rapids kept coming.
The Ghillie huts and their
rowing boats were now looking a bit less luxury and more and shabbier the
further we were from the "prime fishing areas"
At one point it was a brolly
and a wooden chair, a far cry from the luxury chalets further upstream.
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A not so plush Ghillie Hut |
We passed a Ghillie who told
us to be on the lookout for "a body!"
Fortunately we didn't see it,
phew!
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The river changed character again |
As we approached Spey Bay the
river changed its character for the very last time before it turned salty,
large shingle banks and yet still more rapids, until finally we saw Spey Bridge
and then the opening to the sea.
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And the small rapids kept on coming |
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Spey Bridge looms |
I wasn't content until I had
tasted the salt in the water, then I could say that I paddled (in) to the sea.
I floated about for a short while pondering the trip and soaking in what we
have done.
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And the river meets the sea at Spey Bay |
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The Fellowship at the end of a journey |
The trip was over, the
evening and night revolved around first
showers and clean clothes then chips and finally beer at the golf club, until
that is we were kicked out at eight o'clock. Not that we were rowdy or
anything, just that the barman wanted to go home.
Not a bad thing really as it
was a long drive back home the following day.
A big thank you to all that
contributed to make this trip possible, it was grand.
As for Mikes fortnight old
borrowed kayak, did it remain unscathed? Nope it had gained quite a few
"battle scars,” from its trip down the Spey, as did all of the canoes.
Maybe we should not call it damage, more marks
of respect to the river.
Cheers Tim.